so am guessing there nothing special about the timing chain for this type engine .I have not purchased a manual for this car. so replacing the timing chain is it cut and dry? are there any special tools needed or specs? beside basic knowlege of setting up timing dots on crank and cam

thanks for any help
stovebolt

 

I'm sure it's a steel gear

 

1981 Ford Fairmont 3.3L 1BL OHV 6cyl | Repair Guides | Engine And Engine Overhaul | Engine Mechanical | Timing Cover And Chain | AutoZone.comhttp://www.autozone.com/autozone/



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• HOME
• REPAIR INFO
• 1981 FORD FAIRMONT 3.3L 1BL OHV 6CYL REPAIR GUIDE
• ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
• ENGINE MECHANICAL
• TIMING COVER AND CHAIN

Ford- Fairmount/Zephyr 1978-1983 Repair Guide



Timing Cover and Chain

• REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
• COVER OIL SEAL REPLACEMENT

Print

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Fig. Fig. 1 To remove the crankshaft pulley/damper unit, remove the four outer bolts ...

Fig. Fig. 2 ... then separate the smaller pulley from the main pulley/damper

Fig. Fig. 3 While holding the crankshaft steady at the flywheel, loosen the center pulley bolt ...

Fig. Fig. 4 ... then remove the bolt by hand

Fig. Fig. 5 Install a puller onto the pulley/damper unit ...

Fig. Fig. 6 ... and draw the pulley/damper off of the end of the crankshaft

Fig. Fig. 7 To remove the front cover, unfasten the oil pan-to-front cover attaching bolts ...

Fig. Fig. 8 ... then remove any accessory bracket mounting bolts and separate the bracket from the engine

Fig. Fig. 9 Remove the front cover-to-engine block mounting bolts ...

Fig. Fig. 10 ... and separate the cover from the engine block

Fig. Fig. 11 Remove all traces of old gasket material and grime from the mounting surfaces

Fig. Fig. 12 Reinstall the crankshaft pulley bolt and turn the crankshaft, timing chain and camshaft gear ...

Fig. Fig. 13 ... until the timing marks (arrows) on the two gears align as shown

Fig. Fig. 14 Prior to removing the timing chain and camshaft sprocket from the engine, ensure that the timing marks are aligned as shown

Fig. Fig. 15 At this point, the timing chain slack can be checked

Fig. Fig. 16 Remove the camshaft retaining bolt ...

Fig. Fig. 17 ... then slide the camshaft sprocket off of the camshaft and remove it with the timing chain



200 cid (3.3L) Engine

1. Drain the cooling system and crankcase.

CAUTION
When draining engine coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted to ethylene glycol antifreeze and could drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or is several years old.

1. Disconnect the upper radiator hose from the intake manifold and the lower hose from the water pump. On cars with automatic transmissions, disconnect the cooler lines from the radiator.

CAUTION
Please refer to before discharging the compressor or disconnecting air conditioning lines. Damage to the air conditioning system or personal injury could result. Consult your local laws concerning refrigerant discharge and recycling. In many areas it may be illegal for anyone but a certified technician to service the A/C system. Always use an approved recovery station when discharging the air conditioning.

1. Remove the radiator, fan and pulley, and engine drive belts. On models with air conditioning, remove the condenser retaining bolts and position the condenser forward. Do not disconnect the refrigerant lines.
2. Remove the cylinder front cover retaining bolts and front oil pan bolts and gently pry the cover away from the block.
3. Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt and use a puller to remove the vibration damper.
4. With a socket wrench of the proper size on the crankshaft pulley bolt, gently rotate the crankshaft in a clockwise direction until all slack is removed from the left side of the timing chain. Scribe a mark on the engine block parallel to the present position on the left side of the chain. Next, turn the crankshaft in a counterclockwise direction to remove all the slack from the right side of the chain. Force the left side of the chain outward with the fingers and measure the distance between the reference point and the present position of the chain. If the distance exceeds 1 / 2 inch, replace the chain and sprockets.
5. Crank the engine until the timing marks are aligned as shown in the illustration. Remove the bolt, slide the sprocket and chain forward and remove it as an assembly.

To install:

1. Position the sprockets and chain on the engine, making sure that the timing marks are aligned, dot to dot.
2. Reinstall the front cover, applying oil resistant sealer to the new gasket.

Trim away the exposed portion of the old oil pan gasket flush with front of the engine block. Cut and position the required portion of a new gasket to the oil pan, applying sealer to both sides of it.

1. Install the fan, pulley and belts. Adjust the belt tension.
2. Install the radiator, connect the radiator hoses and transmission cooling lines. If equipped with air conditioning, install the condenser.
3. Fill the crankcase and cooling system. Start the engine and check for leaks.

1. air cleaner and disconnect the battery.
2. Disconnect automatic transmission oil cooler lines (if equipped), radiator hoses and remove the radiator.
3. Disconnect heater hose at the water pump. Slide the water pump bypass hose clamp toward the pump.
4. Loosen the alternator mounting bolts at the alternator. Remove the alternator support bolt at the water pump. Remove the Thermactor pump on all engines so equipped. If equipped with power steering or air conditioning, unbolt the component, remove the belt, and lay the pump aside with the lines attached.

CAUTION
Please refer to before discharging the compressor or disconnecting air conditioning lines. Damage to the air conditioning system or personal injury could result. Consult your local laws concerning refrigerant discharge and recycling. In many areas it may be illegal for anyone but a certified technician to service the A/C system. Always use an approved recovery station when discharging the air conditioning.

1. Remove the fan, spacer, pulley, and drive belt.
2. Drain the crankcase.

CAUTION
The EPA warns that prolonged contact with used engine oil may cause a number of skin disorders, including cancer! You should make every effort to minimize your exposure to used engine oil. Protective gloves should be worn when changing the oil. Wash your hands and any other exposed skin areas as soon as possible after exposure to used engine oil. Soap and water, or waterless hand cleaner should be used.

1. Remove the pulley from the crankshaft pulley adapter. Remove the capscrew and washer from the front end of the crankshaft. Remove the crankshaft pulley adapter with a puller.
2. Disconnect the fuel pump outlet line at the pump. Remove the fuel pump retaining bolts and lay the pump to the side. Remove the engine oil dipstick.
3. Remove the front cover attaching bolts.
4. Remove the crankshaft oil slinger if so equipped.
5. Check timing chain deflection, using the procedure outlined in Step 6 of the 200 cid (3.3L) Engine cover and chain removal procedure.
6. Turn the engine until the sprocket timing marks are aligned as shown in the valve timing illustration.
7. Remove the crankshaft sprocket capscrew, washers, and fuel pump eccentric. Slide both sprockets and chain forward and off as an assembly.

To install:

1. Position the sprockets and chain on the camshaft and crankshaft with both timing marks dot to dot on the centerline. Install the fuel pump eccentric, washers and sprocket attaching bolt. Tighten the sprocket attaching bolt to 40-45 ft. lbs.
2. Install the crankshaft front oil slinger.
3. Clean the front cover and mating surfaces of old gasket material. Install a new oil seal in the cover. Use a seal driver tool or equivalent.
4. Coat the new cover gasket with sealer and position it on the block.

Trim away the exposed portion of the oil pan gasket flush with the cylinder block. Cut and position the required portion of a new gasket to the oil pan, applying sealer to both sides of it.

1. Install the front cover, using a crankshaft-to-cover alignment tool. Coat the threads of the attaching bolts with sealer. Tighten the attaching bolts to 12-15 ft. lbs.
2. Install the fuel pump and connect the fuel pump outlet tube.
3. Install the crankshaft pulley adapter and tighten the attaching bolt. Install the crankshaft pulley.
4. Install the water pump pulley, drive belt, spacer and fan.
5. Install the alternator support bolt at the water pump. Tighten the alternator mounting bolts. Adjust the drive belt tension. Install Thermactor pump, if so equipped.
6. Install the radiator and connect all coolant and heater hoses. Connect the battery cables.
7. Refill the cooling system and the crankcase. Install the dipstick.
8. Start the engine and operate it at fast idle.
9. Check for leaks, install the air cleaner. Adjust the ignition timing and make all final adjustments.

COVER OIL SEAL REPLACEMENT



Except 140 cid (2.3L) Engine


It is recommended to replace the cover seal any time the front cover is removed.

1. With the cover removed from the car, drive the old seal from the rear of the cover with a pinpunch. Clean out the recess in the cover.
2. Coat the new seal with grease and drive it into the cover until it is fully seated. Check the seal after installation to ensure the spring is properly positioned in the seal.

 

Even if you don't buy from them, you can look up your application on RockAuto and they usually have a picture of the part you want to buy. While the photos are small, you can usually see what type of material is used. On a lot of Fords from that era, the factory camshaft timing gears were plastic coated, but the aftermarket replacements were steel. Your replacements will most likely be steel.
The step-by-step procedure by Dominick will be helpful. But chances are the oil pan gasket will also be leaking or at least seeping on a car of that age. While you are there, consider changing the oil pan gasket and check the rear main oil seal for leaks. Pulling the oil pan is especially important if your timing chain was plastic, is completely wore out and has plugged up the oil pump pickup screen.

 

thanks for the help
stovebolt

 

A couple of things, when removing the main pulley/damper, if you don't have a chip out of the bell housing like i do, you will either have to remove the starter or inspection plate to hold the flywheel. What I did on the car without the chip was to remove the center pulley bolt with a impact wrench, if this fails, hold the pulley with a strap wrench, or leather belt and use the impact.

Make sure to put the pan and cover bolts on a cardboard template. They are different lengths.

On mine, once the teeth stripped off, the car would not start, therefore the broken teeth did not get circulated into the pan. I did not remove the motor, but did fish a magnet thru the pan for broken pieces, followed with air from the front with the drain plug removed.

Chains come in different widths, don't replace it with one as narrow as the original.

Take the old gears off, and stuff a rag in the lower cover
before you scrape the old gasket off. You don't want that stuff in the pan.

 

well i torn down to see if chain was problem. timing chain looked good. been replaced sometime back i guess cause it was not stretched only thing is the balancer looks like the wrong one some body put on when they did the chain job cause you line up marks on chain but the balancer is still out of time.have not put back together yet going to replace water pump while at it.
i guess the chain is not the problem to the power loss at highway speed. notice when i had it on the rack up by the exhaust manifold there is a coffee can shaped thing below hook up wondering if it is another cat.i plan on taking all the emission stuff off to see if it runs better. top speed 55-60 then going up hills drops 45--35 mph

1981 ford fairmont wagon thanks to all for answers
3.3 inline six
stovebolt:confused5: